Stay sober, stay half drunk

Copenhagen, an artificial sea canal lies bare and unadorned in a key part of a city. During the day, we sat in a boat swimming in the water, watching the thick moss growing on the bottom of the sea, and a bicycle thrown into the bottom of the water. Tourists like me rushed past Nyhavn by hundreds. At night, we came to the other side of the city naked, sitting on a floating steam bath boat, overlooking the elder brother city, of primitive simplicity is its true colors. It seems that all the cities separated by the water maintain an interest. If you think of Beijing again, Beijingers call the water of three mu of land the sea, such as the North Sea and Houhai.

Where there is running water, it is often full of alcohol because it is the most suitable natural condition for brewing wine. Many years ago, Copenhagen people had a tradition: after a long and dark winter, people would gather on the first day of spring, where the sun rises, the Xingang canal, enjoy a can of cold beer and celebrate the coming good times.

The Danes are descendants of the Vikings. In the Kronborg Castle in northern Copenhagen, the legend of Hamlet and the Viking Navigation Museum attracted many tourists. In the Viking faith, the dead ghost will ascend to the Hall of Heroes in Varhala, the hall where Odin, the protagonist of Norse mythology and the god of death, received the heroes. There was a huge goat waiting for them, but it was not milk but endless beer. As a result, Viking sailors dressed in sea spirit shirts and holding newspapers and beer can often be seen in wax sculptures in the museum of the castle palace.

Perhaps it is because of latitude that the Nordic people are all tall and eat a lot. Danish cuisine usually consists of smoked, roasted, pickled, uncooked or fermented food. Some special foods may make Asian tourists vomit their tongues even after tasting them. The local people like these ” heavy – tasting” foods very much and sit at the table, just like the diners in the Danish movie Babette’s Feast. ” Countries that are good at sailing always give priority to tasting the world’s delicious food, but the winter in Denmark is so cold that I believe some people’s tongues are numb with cold. As a result, early cooks have strengthened the characteristics of the dishes of various countries.” In a small restaurant called ” Columbus”, a clerk with an Italian accent proudly introduced the local food after improvement: ” Wine sometimes doesn’t work. Beer and spirits are just as versatile as the weather here. The people in Columbia like to match each dish on the table with a cup of different beer.”

The food in Burs Beer Bar is full of Korean flavor.

I have to start with Carlsberg

Every year from mid – November onwards, carriages with Danish flags will appear on the streets. Most of them are loaded with Carlsberg or Tuborg beer, and drivers dressed as Santa Claus will also give free beer to passers – by. This tradition began in 1990 when Le Bourg Beer introduced Christmas beer with alcohol concentration of 5.7% and named it ” Julebryg”. Some beers were often called ” Snestorm” or ” Snefald”. Soon, Carlsberg also introduced festival beer with alcohol concentration of 4.6% for women. Brewer Morten Ibsen said that Danish bars would officially launch Christmas beer on the first Friday of December. ” The night before, all the traffic police in the city would draw up a liquor control plan for the next day’s carnival.”

Many years ago, there was such news that hundreds of employees at Carlsberg Brewery started a strike because they were dissatisfied with the company’s ” prohibition on alcohol at work”. The previous ” drinking order” stipulates that every employee can drink 3 bottles of beer at the factory free of charge every day, and Carlsberg’s workers have always insisted on and cherished this rule. But after the new ” drinking order” was issued, the free beer that was once everywhere was replaced by mineral water and drinks, and workers could only drink a bottle of beer in the dining hall during lunch time. It is said that the beer company had intended to cancel the driver’s right before, but without success, so Carlsberg installed ” alcohol locks” on all trucks. When the driver’s blood contains more than 0.5% alcohol, the truck cannot start at all. According to the staff of Carlsberg, drinking to work has always been a tradition of Carlsberg. Since the beginning of the factory, workers can enjoy 2 liters of beer to accompany breakfast in the morning. This makes a large number of ” alcoholics” who understand alcohol become employees of this brewery. With the persistence of ” wine putty” in beer, Carlsberg soon became the ” spiritual drink” most admired by the local people. This year, when the brewery workers talked about last year’s strike, they couldn’t help smiling, but they were also determined to ” defend to the death” this hard-won ” last bottle”.

With the evolution of the trend of ” city consciousness”, Carlsberg’s beer park has also become a testing ground for ” sustainable development”. The head of the brewery said that our old factory in Copenhagen had terminated beer production and moved to Fredericia. This brewery, located in the heart of Copenhagen, has become a kind of conceptual museum. To ” drinkers” all over the world, it is a place of historic significance. In the Carlsberg factory, there is a castle-like building similar to a scientific research institution. When visitors enter, they will be required to change into white gown. All scientific research projects related to Carlsberg beer are carried out here. The establishment of this research institute can be traced back to 1875, and its original intention was to upgrade the biochemical technology in the brewing workshop. In 1972, the laboratory was renamed the Carlsberg Research Center and transformed into the research direction of brewing beer. Although it is a ” laboratory building” for brewing beer, most of the pioneering scientific projects such as ” raw, chemical and planting” of beer originate here. Keller’s nitrogen determination method and formaldehyde titration method are all applied from here, making it the most famous ” beer science building” in the world.

Cafeteria Baptist fournier

Yeast is the soul of beer. This tiny microorganism determines the taste of beer today. More than a century ago, beer production was entirely dependent on wild yeast. Although this wild yeast can form the unique taste of beer, its instability has been hindering brewers from further pursuing the stable quality of beer. ” 100 years ago, because there was no stable fermentation technology, every time people opened the barrel, the brewer’s mood was always a little uneasy, because no one could predict what the taste of the liquid in the barrel would be before it was opened.” Morton said, ” It was not until 1883 that Dr. E.C.Hansen of the Carlsberg Research Institute finally isolated pure cultured yeast – storage yeast, making beer crisp and fresh. What is even more epoch-making is that winemakers no longer have to worry about whether what they make will become a mash or a bucket of bitter water. ”

” The founder of Carlsberg did not keep the top secret formula in the cellar of Carlsberg privately. On the contrary, in a very short period of time, Mr. Jacobson selflessly released Carlsberg beer yeast. Thanks to the wide spread of stored yeast, brewers around the world have almost all started mass production and long-distance transportation as if they had received ” divine help” to spread all kinds of beer flavors. ” Morton said, ” Knock – on – the – door stone storage yeast for modern beer is also known as ‘(Carlsbergensis’ in the industry. Up to now, Carlsbergenstis is still being used by breweries in various countries, and colleagues in the industry often talk about the good deeds of founder Jacobson at parties.” The most famous person who came out of the Carlsberg research room was chemist Peter Sorensen. I saw his oil painting in the distillery. The guide told me that workers often need to test the concentration of hydrogen ions in beer, and every test result must record many zeros. Therefore, he designed a simple expression, which is to conveniently express the pH value of the solution by taking the negative logarithmic scale of hydrogen ion concentration, which is known as the pH value.

” Probably the best beer in the world.” This was Carlsberg’s old slogan, but in the cultures of different regions, this sentence does not seem funny, especially when brewed beer began to invade this old beer city in a large scale, Carlsberg also seemed to start introspection, who is the best beer?

Young people in Anderson and Mira Cafe

Fortress Besieged by Brewed Beer

Mikkeller fine brewing has become one of the world’s most famous niche fine brewing beer brands with its unique illustration labels and various typical weird flavors. Another reason for Meguiar’s unexpected popularity is their entrepreneurial story. In 2005, a man named Mikkel Borg Bjergs? ) high school teacher became addicted to beer. he often ran into a bar called Plan B to drink after school. there, he met the reporter Kristian Klarup Keller, so the two of them bored at home to make their own beer. Homemade beer was originally designed to save money, but their beer experiment quickly developed from 20 liters to 50 liters, and finally they bought barrels from Belgium for storage. In the end, the two became famous in Copenhagen’s brewing circle and began to emerge in local brewing competitions. In 2006, the two merged their names ” Mikkeller” and the brewed ” Beer Geek Breakfast” was named the world’s best Stout on the beer evaluation website ratebeer. The two men who stood at the crossroads of business opportunities eventually parted ways. Keller decided to return to his music magazine ” Soundvenue” to continue his ideals, while Mike began to run around, renting low-cost idle equipment for mass production. As a result, this nomadic brewing method was eventually dubbed ” Gypsy Brewer”.

Brunch at cafe 108

The number of beers produced by Meguiar has always been an astronomical figure. Each of their wine labels seems to illustrate a story with graphics. Sometimes there is no story or gimmick, and the characters are simply abstracted. Today, their Copenhagen bar Mikkeller & Friends ranks among the top 10 independent beer houses in the world. The ” hop bandit” is a bitter beer they once produced, with a self-rated bitterness ( IBU ) of 1,000 ( most bitter beer index is 50 ~ 200 ). After drinking it, the bitter taste in the mouth will last for half an hour. Presumably, this name is also similar to what we often call ” killing the salt seller”. Its wine label is printed with a masked boy in a cage. Someone left a message on the internet and should send the brewer to prison. My favorite wine is called ” Mikkeller Recipe 1000 Chardonnay Barrels”, champagne stopper, with complex but refreshing taste. Besides the fragrance of flowers, there are some typical wines and a little Grappa taste. Another reason for liking it is that Mikkeller has statistics on its own production. ( This wine was sold briefly in China. ” Jingdong” always refers to the high-end beer it sells as Belgian beer. )

If ” Mikhail” is a paradise, then ” Brus” can be regarded as an oasis in heaven. This brewery is located in the west bridge area ( n? Rrebro ), surrounded by Michelin – star Thai restaurants ” Kiin Kiin” and ” Baest”, booth had to upgrade the dishes to the ” absolute wine match” standard. from fried chicken to mushroom mayonnaise with fermented chips, the seasoning oil was wrapped with unique ingredients. however, the occasional kimchi was surprising. My fellow chef friend told me in a low voice that there are many Korean cooks ” in charge” in the kitchen of this restaurant. Of course, standing at the glass window of booth can also watch the brewing process of beer. 19,000 litres of beer are stored in 13 fermentation tanks, and 70 oak barrels are set in the center of the building to store bottled beer.

At booth’s bar, I saw a ” To” co-operating with Beijing’s ” Beijing a”? L ” and then ordered three glasses of beer by name, namely” Rye Me A River “,” Nice to Malt You ” and” Don’t Panic It’s Organic “. although experience has always reminded me never to order wine with strange names in bars, curiosity drove me to place an order and finally found out. Each of the three beers has its own peculiar style, and one of them, ” Mai Yihe”, is impressive. It emits an acidic smell of fermented rye bread, which matches the beef hamburger served by the chef.

N? Rebrobryghus’s beer is slightly inferior, but the menu is well done. Anders Kissmeyer, a former brewer of Carlsberg, began to create his own fine wine brand with another brewer, Emil Rosendahl, more than 10 years ago when the trend of fine wine in the United States was introduced to Europe. The first customers of these fine brewed beers were young people in their 20s. They did not have the habit of drinking Pilsner beer. These taste testers soon became regular customers and fans of the emerging fine wine bar. ” This is how the beer siege began.” The girl who explained to us was named Camilla Riis. The camera shot of photographer Lao Yu may make her a little nervous. She kept drinking beer and explained the origin and taste highlights of each wine to us. When she drank the third cup, she could not drink it and drank with us frequently.

Reese said that there is also a ” disease” related to beer in northern Europe – Cenosillicaphobia. when drinkers lift their glasses and start drinking, fear gradually strikes, and when they see the liquid in the glasses begin to be replaced by air, they will have an inexplicable sense of suffocation. In my opinion, this is a kind of obsessive-compulsive disorder, which is often the case where design and aesthetic feeling are required. Then I learned its ” treatment method” – to order double the amount of beer for myself. I told her that taking the empty cup as soon as possible was the best solution.

Probably the most authentic fine coffee

Coffee is very interesting. The best coffee shops are not located in Jamaica, Cuba, Java or Kenya. They are always located in places far away from the coffee producing areas or even places that do not produce coffee at all, such as Melbourne and Copenhagen. It is different from food. You don’t need to demand local ingredients. If you look at it from a large circular chain, food shapes culture while culture shapes local coffee.

Starting from the Christianshavn station and walking along the waterway, the crowd suddenly disappeared from behind. after walking for a while, it passed through a quiet residential area. Finally We are No One from the Múm band was heard in the headphones, which was very clever. Occasionally someone rides by, and the wheels collide with the bumpy gravel road to make an annoying noise.

” 108″ restaurant got its name from the road sign. Behind it was the former site of ” Norma” restaurant. Now it has become a restaurant named ” Barr”. It was in the afternoon when I walked into ” 108″. Occasionally someone passed by outside the house. I thought I could find a seat easily, but I found the restaurant was full of people. I ordered several items in a hurry, but I pushed the door and sat on the cold seat at the door. The waiter asked me curiously if I was cold when delivering the meal. I responded with an embarrassed but polite smile. The coffee was too cold to taste, and the aroma slipped into the bottom of the cup. On the contrary, apple salad and snacks showed good taste in the bitter wind. Occasionally tourists picked up the camera and pushed the lens toward me, as if to record this man savoring delicious food in the cold wind. Within 20 minutes of walking along the road, one can see a wooden shed, ” La Banchina” is not famous for its coffee, but for its lake scenery and steam bath. Some young people in swimsuits sweated out of the bath room and jumped straight into the lake. Soon, they came ashore with chills, rushed back to the cafe, and used a steaming cup of coffee drink to dispel the chill in their bodies. Here, coffee is the best drink to fight cold winter.

On a quiet afternoon, I walked into the main road ( n? Andersen & Maillard Cafe in rrebrogade was at 3: 00 p.m. and it was getting dark like ink pouring into a bottle. The cafe was full of people typing and meeting. There was plenty of time, and I systematically drank concentrated, American, Filter and Cortado coffee here. The concentrated aroma is typical of medium baking, leaving a slight salty taste after entrance. Cortado’s taste is even soft, lingering in the mouth for a while, as if to feel a little fruit-like acidity.

In fact, coffee beans also demand local ” food materials” – water. For more than ten days in Copenhagen, the person who complained to me repeatedly about the water quality has always been a barista.

With all my doubts about coffee, I went to the world-famous coffee shop Coffee Collective ( the one in Torvehallerne Market also went ). This coffee shop is like a concentrated Instagram album, full of symbolic design elements of northern Europe. Its fame in the coffee circle has spread to the world. Everything comes from a small cup of concentration and the regional spirit of Columbia City – Hygge ( ease and comfort ). It is such a small independent brand that uses delicate beans to ” confront” the industrialized coffee power of Starbucks and its allies.

Baptiste Fournier, who won the world championship of the AeroPress competition, received us. He is French, but after that he will represent the Danes in the next competition. Fournier said that coffee drinks play an extremely important role in daily communication in Europe. It is a sobering drink, while beer is another. He said that Danes used to only drink filtered coffee, but now young people all over Europe are looking for a suitable coffee flavor for themselves. ” My favorite bean now is Kieni in Kenya.” He said.

However, what makes me curious is that all the reports on Coffee Collective mentioned ” Direct Trade” instead of the previous ” Fair Trade”. Standing in the bean baking workshop, fournier explained that the direct trade practice is that the business operators personally visit the coffee growers every year, pay the fees, and personally select beans. We will also post the photos of these farmers on the coffee varieties corresponding to them. However, this purchase will cause a cost increase of about 25%. ” Even so, we think it is worthwhile to do so.”

He also talked about the match that won the championship. ” The rules only allow you to drink 250 grams of competition coffee ten days before the competition.” He said, ” On that day, I chose 35g. I probably focused too much on the taste of coffee and the correct ratio of water to coffee.” Fournier continued: ” I like the high acidity of sl28/34. It shows the side of coffee beans and fruits very well. I know that this kind of coffee has opened eyes to many people. This is one of the varieties we have been purchasing for the past 9 years. It is this long-term direct purchasing relationship that enables us to pay closer attention to the farm and continuously improve. ” When I asked what I think of today’s Danish coffee, he replied that the ecological change in this area is very slow, but very healthy, unlike the sudden rise of ” Third-wave Coffee Shops” in Paris, which have great ups and downs. However, there are too many impurities in Copenhagen water.

What should a cup of coffee taste like? The answer seems to vary from person to person. In short, the good of Coffee Collective is that a person who often holds Starbucks or Seasaw coffee can also taste it well. The delicious taste is that salivary glands never need to secrete excessive saliva to neutralize complex or overweight tastes. Just the right concentration allows you not to think too much or frown. But at the moment, thickness, level and purity are all nonsense.

Finally, I simply want to come to fournier’s coffee recipe when he won the championship.


Baptist fournier’s Formula for ” Love and Pressure” Champion

35g match coffee beans ( ground: very coarse )

Pour into AeroPress

Add 80 ml of water ( 85°C / 185°F ), 30ppm

Stir for 10 seconds

Add another 60 ml of hot water

Stir again after one minute.

Press and hold for 20 seconds

Filtration ( using double filter paper )

140 ml of water was added to the finished product.