The electric railway is at the end of Uji, with few passengers. Coming out of the station, there was a low and verdant mountain range on the front, and the undulating houses spread from the bottom of the mountain. In the evening, a small town with a clean and elegant appearance appeared.
When I was planning this trip, I accidentally saw a photo of the purple statue taken in Uji in the self-help tour manual, and that photo attracted me. A few years ago, I first read The Tale of Genji. The elegant and beautiful narrative and delicate sentimental feelings are very interesting. The story of the last ten posts in the book happened in Uji, known as “Uji Ten Posts.” According to the manual, this place is located between Osaka and Kyoto, and the transportation is convenient. I immediately decided to look up at the Purple Statue, and by the way, enjoy the appearance of a small Japanese town.
Next to the station, a wide river rushed from the mountain soup, the water was flowing clean and the river was divided into two. The wooden sign on the river read: Uji River. In the “Uji Ten Posts”, the rumbling sound of Ujigawa repeatedly appeared, rendering the emotional entanglement of the three daughters of the princely family of the Eight Princes, the prince, the floating boat and Kaoru, and the palace, and the desolation of the helpless woman Situation. Perhaps because of the influence of that book, I felt that the constant sound of water was not only noisy, but also added some ruthless feelings.
Uji Bridge is just in front of it. Standing on the top of the bridge and looking around, the pattern of a small city with mountains and rivers is even clearer. This bridge has been around for a long time, and it is also a scene that often appears in the book-in the misty fog, Kaoru Hagi Palace crosses the bridge quietly to visit the lover who lives here, but Uji Bridge in that world is cold and lonely.
After crossing the bridge, I walked towards a tall torii and unexpectedly walked into a clean side street. There are not many people on the street, the shops on both sides are quaint and interesting, and the variety of goods and whispered shop assistants reflect Japanese-style refinement and gentleness everywhere. I went shopping to find the hotel that I had booked online before going abroad. Under the guidance of a tall and handsome postman, I turned a corner and returned to the Uji River. Along the river, there are flowing water on the left and traditional Japanese-style small buildings staggered on the right.
The hotel I booked is one of the small buildings in the row, and also catfish cuisine. The shop on the first floor is not large, refreshing and well-organized. The two ladies in the shop are dressed in simple Japanese-style clothes, seemingly mother or daughter. Mother-in-law and two. The young man led me to the second-floor room. There were two Japanese-style rooms inside and outside. A paper door separated the living room from the bedroom. The long window was facing the rushing Uji River. A narrow oasis in the center of the river was full. Tempted.
I rolled out the Uji map obtained from a tourist information point on the side street and studied it for a while. I found that there is also a Tale of Tale Museum on the other side of the river. It is even more pleasant that the small oasis facing the long window is actually orange. island. In the post of “The Floating Boat” in “The Tale of Genji”: On a snowy night, the palace and the lover’s pontoon cross the boat to a villa on the shore, passing by Orange Island, and seeing the orange trees on the island are still green. The Kunigaku gave a floating boat to the tree chant:
Although the feelings have not changed over the years, the island of orange is a testament to this heart.
Love deep section. However, the floating song of the floating boat is:
The trees are green or not changed, so where can the pontoon swing?
At that time, the pontoon was in an emotional struggle with the emperor’s palace and Kaoru’s children, and also a court minister, and he was full of anxiety about the future of these two relationships and his future. Her helplessness, pain, and loss.
However, when I walked out of the hotel and happily came to the wooden bridge leading to Orange Island, I found that the bridge head was blocked by thick ropes, and the sign next to it said that because of the flood season, for the safety of tourists, recently Ban on Island-What a pity! I looked at the island in vain and walked on the side of the river. The island is divided into two and is connected by a small orange-red bridge with a stone tower at the east end. But no orange trees were seen, and there were many pine trees, lush. If you want to come to the dry season during the cold winter, the water potential should not be so fast, otherwise, in the dark night, a small boat crossing the river is too thrilling. Where can I still sing and flirt?
After dinner, I went out to hang out. Except for the two locals walking the dog, the other pedestrians were hardly seen and quiet everywhere. On the main street directly connected to Ujibashi, only a few sporadic shops are still open. Standing on the bridge for a while, the night breeze rushed down the river, and there was some coolness. Somewhere, a motorcycle was racing in the wind, and the roar of a bursting motor came from far away, exposing its track and speed.
Folding back, I unexpectedly found the purple statue that attracted me to this line. It turned out that she had been sitting quietly at the bridge head of Uji, hidden next to a gracefully beautiful Komatsu and a few blue stones. It must have been a clumsy bridge railing that blocked my view. It was the tall torii next to it and the carefully arranged windows that attracted my attention. It was all the noise of the day that blocked my sensitivity, so a few hours ago As I passed here, I ignored her presence. However, the moment I saw her, I was very fortunate that I met her alone in this quiet night. The statue presents the gray and white nature of the stone, simple and elegant-her small body sits quietly, draped, hair shawl, holding long curls, meditation. On the side of Komatsu Tingting, the green grass beside the base melted, and everything was unified under the soft street lights. Suddenly, this elegant sage explained to me all the meaning of this space and this night.
Lying on a hotel tatami in the dark, there are still purple figures in the brain, and the sound of gurgling water is more clear than in the daytime, and I will visit tomorrow, not far from the equality hospital, also has the purple department Inextricably linked, all these brought a world of “The Tale of Genji” closer to me than ever before. The people and events in the “Uji Ten Posts”, which is the end of the book, are completely different from the previous 44 posts. That charming light source has spent his life of ups and downs and romance. For a while, it was not as good as his atmosphere. They led the story from the lively capital city to the cold Uji, and used their overly mournful and laissez-faire temperaments, together with the weak kings and pontoons, to perform some pitying sorrows. The coldness of the ten posts is in stark contrast to the heat of the first forty-four posts. The cold contrast sharp blade generally cuts off the flashy false skin, and deeply reveals the purple style department’s impermanence of the world and the vagueness of life.
The next morning, he walked upstream along the river for a while and entered the mountains. From time to time, several people appeared under the lush mountain forests on both sides. A small wooden house suddenly stood on the shore, surrounded by fences, and a wooden sign next to it said “The Tale of Genji, Uji Ten Posts (5), Sumu” and the introduction of that post. The monuments attached in this way, although far-fetched, will definitely add a lot of travel pleasure for tourists who know this masterpiece. A shapely young runner ran across sweating and smiled at me, and the small water bottle tied to his waist moved rhythmically with his steps. I looked at him enviously. As a running enthusiast, I can feel the joy of running in the mountains and green waters. If he can also appreciate some of the wonderful things in “The Tale of Genji”, this route can be called It’s perfect.
Return to the hotel to check out, walk for about ten minutes, and enter a tree-lined trail. The Byodoin Temple is right in front of you.
Because the environment is quiet and close to Kyoto, Uji has been a royal and noble vacation place since ancient times. The Byodoin Temple has been built for several generations by the emperor, and then reconstructed by Minister Fujiwara. At the time, Fujiwara’s family was in power. The daughter of the head, Akiko, was a queen. One of Akiko’s senior maids was the Purple Department, and her main task was to teach Akiko Sinology. The accumulation of court life of this great writer has made a vivid description of the life of nobles in the Heian period, the struggle for political power, and the court rituals in The Tale of Genji. The Fujiwara Villa, which is likely to have left the footprint of the Purple Ministry, was also handed over by her, becoming the prototype of the villa built by the light source’s son Xiwu in the book. In the hands of Fujiwara’s longest son, Fujiwara Raito, the villa was converted into a place for Buddhist cultivation, which is now the Byodoin Temple.
Enter the gate of the courtyard, pass through the path of flowers and leaves, and face a pool of clear waves, the poolside is the main building of the Pingyuan Phoenix Hall. The three buildings of Fenghuangtang are facing the water. The architectural form is similar to the Tang Dynasty style in China, but the structure is slightly smaller. The main building is tall and the promenades on both sides are unfolding. A golden bronze phoenix stands on each end of the roof of the main building, which adds to the light and graceful style of the whole building. It is called the Phoenix Hall. It is said that the designer’s idea comes from people’s longing for the Bliss Pure Land. This wonderful building matches a pool of clean water, and it is indeed delightful.
The entire Byodoin Temple is arranged around this pool. I will go around the pool first. In the cultural relics gallery, a replica of a statue of a bodhisattva in the cloud was seen. The bodhisattva boasted its chest and red arms, sitting in the cloud, dazzling its eyes, flying with its clothes, holding the magpies in a striking shape, with vivid shapes and colorful colors. The courtyards around the house are mostly Buddhist temples, and there are several stele towers scattered in the courtyard. I took a few pictures at will. When I came back to organize the photos, I found that I accidentally took a treasure pagoda that supported the samurai source Laizheng in the late Heian period.
In fact, in the late period of Fujiwara Lai Tong’s administration, the samurai class rose rapidly, and the Fujiwara family has gradually been marginalized. The original family, which had a close relationship with the Fujiwara family, has grown into a powerful samurai force, and it is a court with the Ping family of another samurai group. Upstart. Afterwards, Ping and Yuan fought. Just about a century after the Byodoin Temple was built, the source-dependent policy rebelled, and he was repelled by the emperor’s Heian family and defeated in Kyoto. The two sides fought fiercely at the bridgehead of Uzhi, and the source relied on the government’s defeat and retreat to the Equality Home.
This life is like burying the wood, just to see the flowers bloom. I will resign for a long time, and there is still sorrow.
Expressing his unwilling resentment, in fact he was seventy-seven years old at the time, and his life was worth it.
Two years later, another warrior from the source family, Ms. Zeng Yizhong, led his army into Kyoto and the Ping family went west. But not long after, Kuzeng had an internal strife with Yuan Lai, the leader of the Yuan family. A bloody battle was fought again on both sides of the Uji River. The pioneer of the Yuanlai Dynasty was through the Uji River through the orange island that I wanted to go to yesterday. Mu Zeng was defeated when he was only 31 years old. After another eight years, the source family won the final victory and started the Shogunate era.
I later read a wonderful description of this period of history in another Japanese classic, The Hiraga Monogatari. “Hira Family Story” ranks second only to “Genji Monogatari” in the history of Japanese literature. The styles of the two works are rigid and soft, with great differences, but the themes are deeply influenced by the Buddhists. The opening poem of The Story of Heikei:
The bells of Gion’s fine house have the sound of impermanence, the color of Sha Luo’s double trees, and the principle that the prosperous will decline …
Corresponds to the lamentation of impermanence in The Tale of Genji.
Visiting the Phoenix Hall requires additional tickets, which are entered in batches. Tourists cross a small bridge under the guidance of the interpreter, even if they enter the pure land of bliss. The Amitabha Buddha in the main building is majestic. Although the golden paint has faded and is gloomy, the arc is soft, the proportion is appropriate, and the appearance is comfortable. This is actually stitched together with pieces of wood. The Japanese people ’s pursuit of details is really ancient. Already. Around the Amitabha Buddha, the tops of the four walls are equipped with some statues of bodhisattva in the clouds, which are light dancing, playing music, or flying, with different postures, small and exquisite, but they have lost their original luster. The statue of the bodhisattva in the cultural relics exhibition hall is reproduced based on one of these. Imagine if everyone was still so beautiful and so cluttered, it would look so gratifying. The bottom of the four walls and the lintel are painted with “Nine Pins to welcome the picture”. Because of the serious damage, most of them were covered by wooden boards protectively. A small part of the lintel was also restored by copying .—— King Yin The tutor drove Baiyun and rushed to a certain place with a group of immortals. According to this brain supplement, there is a dying man in the shaded place, waiting for the coming of the Bodhisattva with a breath of breath.
When I came out of the hall, I saw a stone lamppost in front of the eaves standing silently by the pool. But now think about it, the shouts of slaughter on both sides of the Uji River will surely make people who practiced in the Buddhist hall at that time horrified, and how horrifying the scene of the white-haired source Laizheng will be, and the blood-stained scene will be. And how many men and women who have been stumped by the unspeakable complaints and feelings have never been cleaned up?
Leaving Byodoin, turned into that side street, and bought a packet of Uji Yulu at a popular tea shop. Uji tea is a local specialty and is very popular in Japan. The elegant wrapping paper is printed with this tea’s chic name “Suki”, which is the same post as “The Tale of Genji” from the ancient monuments that I encountered near the river in the morning. In this post, Kaoru was frustrated because of the death of the Maharaja, and he encountered his half-mother pontoon who had been separated for many years. The appearance of the pontoon was very similar to that of the Maharaja, and Kaoru’s heart rippled again. After returning from Japan, the bag of tea was crushed all the way, and it was broken into pieces, but the soup was soft and delicate, and the taste was slightly bitter and sweet. Is this the taste of sadness, ambiguousness, and enthusiasm in that post?
Under the sun, the Uji bridgehead was again in the noisy, and the purple part looked more lonely than last night. A few egrets stunned on the Uji River behind her. I crossed the bridge and went to the Tale of Genji Museum.
The museum occupies a small area, only about two floors high, and the architectural style is also quite low-key. The off-white walls and wave-shaped roof are half hidden in the green forest. If you don’t pay attention, you will almost miss it.
The exhibits in the museum are mostly imitations of cars, clothing, and furniture written in the book, as well as scene simulations such as piano care, dressing, and hand talk, which are very helpful for understanding the noble life and utensil etiquette during the Heian period. That ox cart is said to have been made at a 1: 1 ratio. The carriages are colorful and beautiful, but it is a bit small. No wonder when the friends in the book took the rain and drove out for a tryst, the result was often water dripping. The ground appeared before the women.
The central character of “The Tale of Genji”, the light source, is beautiful, intelligent, elegant and elegant, but also full of grandeur and profound conspiracy. He emerged from the crowded royal family and grew into a powerful generation of power ministers, which can be called the perfect man in the minds of Japanese. There is a sand table model in the pavilion, which is based on the Liujoyuan that was built during the heyday of the light source. Rojoin is divided into four places, and the scenery is set according to the different themes of spring, summer, autumn, and winter. There are four women who are most loved by the light source. Standing in front of this sand table, I found that the rigorous pattern and grand scale of the courtyard were far beyond my imagination when I was studying. The sky-light power and luxury of the light source were interpreted more clearly by this sand table.
In a small dark room, a huge display screen alternately plays the imaginary pictures of Gu Yuzhi in different seasons depicted in the book. Uji at that time was just a small town, but the general pattern was faintly identifiable. The Huangtu Road leading to Xiwu Villa is undoubtedly the predecessor of the current small street. The location of the Xiwu Villa coincides with that of the Byodoin Temple, but the scale is much larger, but that is likely to be the style of the ancient Byodoin Temple. The eight princes’ house is right by the river, opposite the Xiwu villa. From my experience of listening to the sound of Ujigawa’s running water last night, it is not surprising that the two sisters who lived there lonely were repeatedly disturbed by the sound of running water after the death of the eighth prince. It seems that the purple department’s experience of Uji’s living life is really enough . But the orange island is bare and there are no trees. I do n’t know if it was ignored by the producer.
A staff member walked gently through the exhibition hall and showed the visitor a piece of hand-held sign, the text on it reminded the visitor that the movie room was about to open.
The audio-visual hall is small, but the design is chic. After entering from the entrance next to the screen, the audience needs to step over a short bridge standing in front of the screen above a dry mountain and flowing water to enter the auditorium. This set is undoubtedly simulated in the Uji River and Uji Bridge installations And the experience of crossing the bridge, took the lead in subtly introducing the audience ’s psychology into the “Uji Ten Posts” scenario. The movie is about 30 minutes. The typical Japanese animation shows a plot where the pontoon is trapped in love and helpless. The floating pontoon under running water still looks blank and bitter, with long hair floating, which is amazing.
There is a reading room in the museum displaying various versions and translations of “The Tale of Genji”, which visitors can read freely. There is only one Chinese version of “The Tale of Genji”. The version and the translator have never heard of it. I read it two times, which is very strange and the printing is rough. I read Lin Wenyue’s translation before. It has a long-lasting flavor. Although Feng Zikai’s translation has not been read at that time, it will not be bad with rich experience. They are all good products), do not understand why they chose such an inexplicable translation to put in it. If it is seen by foreigners who know it, it is considered to be the level of Chinese translation of Japanese classical literature. Would n’t it be awkward? I really want to suggest to them that Lin and Feng’s translations can be added to the bookshelf, or at least let them know that there is a better Chinese translation. However, looking around for a week, but did not see the staff, I had to hurry and had no choice but to stop.
When I came out of the other door, I found that the original museum was built under a small hill. I walked along the quiet path at the foot of the mountain. I saw two supplementary monuments of “Uji Ten Posts”, just two wooden signs. A black marble stele engraved with a short song written by a female writer and Xie Yejingzi for “early fern”, “Shiimoto” and “Suki”. Yoshino Yoshiko was the first writer to translate the ancient Tale of Genji into modern Japanese. Mr. Feng Zikai read this translation and became interested in Tale of Genji.
At a fork in the road, I turned right, which led to the station. Later I learned that if I turned left at that time, I would walk all the way to the Uji River and meet a statue at the head of the Chaowu Bridge leading to Orange Island, which shows the scenes of the night palace and the floating boat. And looking across the water, maybe you can see the monument of Ujigawa’s advance in the island. This monument is to commemorate the pioneer who crossed the river in the confrontation with Kiso Yoshiyuki. The scene of the general’s crossing over is described vividly in The Story of Hei Family. The classic scenes from the two masterpieces are presented in one place, which is fascinating to think about, but I missed it so much.
I boarded a bus at Qiaotou and headed to another tram station to get to Kyoto. The endless Ujigawa gradually disappeared from view. Shortly after returning to China, I read a harmony song in “Manye Collection”:
Hego’s eighty family, the family’s river is sloshing, whirlpool as a fish maggot, no one knows where to go.
The Shihe River is Ujigawa. In this way, Gu Yuchuan’s scenery can also be seen one or two.