Journey to Fontainebleau

  Before I left Beijing for Paris, my old classmate Zhenghua (grandson of Zhang Lan) who had worked in France for a long time told me: “Fontainebleau is so beautiful, you must go.” This really made me fascinated. However, perhaps because Fontainebleau is too far from downtown Paris, the travel team I participated in did not arrange this itinerary. Therefore, after the army returned to China, I stayed alone, and under the guidance and help of my old friend Wu Gang (the eldest son of Wu Zuguang and Xin Fengxia, who has settled in Paris), I realized this dream by myself.
  Fontainebleau is located 60 kilometers south of Paris. The original meaning of French is “Schoenquan”, and it is named after an octagonal small spring. The essayist Zhu Ziqing translated it as “Fontainebleau”, and the poet Xu Zhimo translated it as “Fontaine Boluo”. Both are beautiful, and the former is particularly poetic, reminiscent of maple leaves dyed redder by the frost and dew of an autumn morning.
  Fontainebleau was originally a forest with an area of ​​17,000 hectares. It not only has gorgeous maples, but also oaks, cypresses, birches, beech and other trees. It is a royal garden dedicated to hunting by princes and nobles. In 1137, King Louis VI of France ordered the construction of a palace here. In the 16th century, Francis I built a magnificent palace here. After Henry II, IV and Louis XIV, XV, XVI and other kings of the transformation, expansion, repair and decoration, resulting in this palace into a luxurious building complex; many wedding and funeral ceremonies of the royal family, State ceremonies are often held here. Napoleon I officially moved the First Palace to Fontainebleau, far from the center of the city, in order to express the revolution. Since then, it has become the site of an important historical and political event in Europe. For example, when Napoleon proclaimed himself emperor in 1804, he stood on the horseshoe-shaped high platform in front of the main entrance of Fontainebleau Palace (with symmetrical stairs on both sides) to deliver his inaugural speech; in 1812 Napoleon imprisoned the Pope, the supreme leader of Western theocracy; in 1814 Napoleon also issued an edict of abdication here. From 1945 to 1965, the Western Allied Command was also located in the palace, and the “North Atlantic Treaty Organization” mark still remains outside the palace walls. After more than 800 years of vicissitudes, the Fontainebleau Palace has become a large-scale exposition hall composed of a main tower of a feudal castle, a palace built by six dynasties kings, five courtyards of different shapes and four gardens with different characteristics. View and study from all aspects of history, culture, art, architecture and natural ecology. UNESCO has listed it as a precious treasure shared by mankind in the “World Cultural Heritage List”.
  The Fontainebleau Palace was designed and constructed by French architects, while the interior decoration and decoration were undertaken by Italian artists, thus forming the famous “Fontainebleau” in architectural art that integrates French and Italian styles. “group. For example, the upper part of the promenade of François I is a fresco with dim colors contrasted by bright imitation marble figures, and the lower part is a wall carved with fine wood. Walking into the magnificent and beautiful palace, we can not only feel the magnificent and luxurious imperial arrogance like the Palace of Versailles and the Louvre, but also appreciate the perfect combination of ancient Roman style and French romantic sentiment. Each of its large or small resplendent halls is a dazzling array of art galleries. Such as: the walls of the conference hall are painted with blue and rose-colored paintings; the ballroom has 8 murals and 50 oil paintings; the Tiana promenade has produced 25 murals describing the history of France; the saucer gallery is inlaid with 128 frescoes Porcelain painting dishes; even the Queen’s Playroom has imitation marble carvings and imitation bas-relief grey oil paintings, and the King’s Guard Room has carved beams and imitation leather wall decorations. The most elegant and luxurious is naturally the bedroom of the kings of the past dynasties (in 1808, it was changed to the throne room by Napoleon). The entire walls and ceiling are decorated with three shades of yellow, red and green. The gilded crystal chandelier brightens the walls and adds to the gorgeous atmosphere. It is worth emphasizing that all the furnishings in the palace follow the layout of Napoleon’s residence period. Most of the fireplaces, candlesticks, tables and chairs, gilt furniture, tapestries, carpets and precious works of art in glass cabinets are original antiques. Some audience members wanted to sit on the king’s throne or the queen’s phoenix bed and take a picture. As soon as their feet crossed the cordon, the hidden siren blared loudly, scaring them to “rescue” immediately.
  What caught my attention the most was that there was an independent Chinese pavilion in the Palace of Fontainebleau, which was built under the auspices of Napoleon III’s empress Augini. The China Pavilion is located on one side of the front of the palace. At the gate with three semicircular arches, there is a pair of majestic stone lions squatting. Stepping into the door of the China Pavilion, in the outer corridor with a large row of glass windows, we can see the exhibits that are very characteristic of the Chinese nation at a glance. Especially the “Jubao Dragon Pavilion” with a bright and dazzling wooden structure, the four traditional Chinese characters on the pavilion base composed of four dragon heads are very handsome and strong, which makes me feel very cordial; in the middle four slim carved dragon columns , hold up the big roof with two layers of cornices and corners high, the shape is very beautiful, and the workmanship is quite exquisite; the eight copper bells hanging on the corners, like the big earrings gently swaying around the face of an oriental beauty, make the whole handicraft look Extraordinarily charming.
  However, unfortunately, the showroom of the China Pavilion was not open on this day, and there is no way to know why. A Chinese student who was traveling with him asked a female staff member in the palace: “We are tourists from China, can you let us go in and take a look.” Seeing that the other side was embarrassed, he pointed at me and said, “This is This gentleman is a university professor who specializes in art…” The young lady smiled and nodded, said something to the international students, and turned away. After a while, she brought a forty-year-old woman in charge, who smiled politely at us, took out the key and opened the door of the showroom. Not only that, she also accompanied us to visit the entire China Pavilion.
  There are several small suites, but each of them is full of historical relics from the Ming and Qing Dynasties in my country, that is, some of the rare treasures looted by the British and French troops from Beijing’s Yuanmingyuan in 1860, a total of thousands of pieces. Among them are: tables, chairs, stools, screens, palace fans, palace lanterns, and incense burners inlaid with pearls and jade; finely carved ornaments such as coral, white jade, and Tian Huangshi; antique bronzes and colorful imperial kiln tribute porcelain; The famous calligraphy and painting of famous people; the wooden jasper screen inscribed with the article recording the 60th birthday of Qianlong and the banquet held by the old man; there is even the crown worn by the Qing emperor in summer… Facing these priceless national treasures, my heart is full of emotions, and I am filled with emotion. I can’t help but think of the ruins of the Yuanmingyuan after it was burnt down by the fire, and remember that in 1861, in a letter to a friend, Hugo fiercely criticized and condemned the brutal crimes of the invading army. Take pictures one by one. Afterwards, I heard people say that photography is generally not allowed in these exhibits, but the woman in charge, who has always been with me, did not intervene.
  Walking out of the China Pavilion, you will be greeted by a 4-hectare lake surrounded by trees. The mirror-like surface of the lake is filled with clouds and mists, and water birds are leisurely flying back; , It is said that their ancestors grew and multiplied in this lake hundreds of years ago. They can be called descendants of “royal fish”. No wonder these “long sons and dragon grandsons” are so strong, the largest one is more than one meter long. Looking up, on the other side of the lake there is a light yellow octagonal pavilion with arched glass windows on all sides. Staring at the Octagonal Pavilion and the shadows of the surrounding trees reflected in the lake, I seem to have dreamed of the elegant scene of the leisurely clouds and lonely cranes with the fragrance of fish, fat and wine…
  Fontainebleau Palace is really a rare art palace in the world. The surrounding forests, lakes, springs, fields, lawns, etc. are rarely artificially carved and pretentious. The tranquility of the environment and the purity and freshness of the air are unmatched by ordinary palaces (including the Louvre and Versailles). . It can be said that the Palace of Fontainebleau is a specimen for practicing the concept of “harmony between man and nature”, a model of the integration of natural and human landscapes; at the same time, it is also an irreplaceable base for research in history, culture, art and science. .

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